****** - Verified Buyer
4.5
WARNING!! Make sure you purchase this from one of the dealership listings and not one of the non-dealership sellers here on Amazon. This product should never be less than $80, which is the cheapest a genuine OEM unit will ever cost. The ones going for $50 or so are likely fakes. Fake ones will leave you with a broken engine again in not too long. Pay more for OEM and be happy it will last probably the rest of the engine's life.The right/rear oil control valve is a little more involved to replace than the left/front one, but it is still pretty easy.Step 1 - Disconnect the negative battery cable on the main car battery.Step 2 - Remove the plastic cover on the engine if there is one.Step 3 - Locate the oil control valve on the right/rear bank on the end facing the air filter box.Step 4 - There will be a 3-way plastic valve looking plastic black box with three vacuum hoses connected to it right over the oil control valve. Disconnect two of the hoses (doesn't matter which ones, whatever is easier) and push the hoses and box out of the way.Step 5 - Disconnect the wire plug from the oil control valve using your right hand reaching under the hoses and wires so your thumb is on the little lever/press tab on the wire side top of the plastic plug connector. It takes a lot of force to get it free by pushing down on the tab, which lifts it off the hook inside the plug holding it on. It will probably break due to age. Use your left hand to push the plug off while releasing the button with your right.Step 6 - Squeeze two paper towels down the sides of the 10mm bolt that holds the oil control valve in place. This is to help prevent the tiny bolt from falling down into the engine if you drop it.Step 7 - Use an extension on a 10mm socket to reach the 10mm bolt head and loosen it up.Step 8 - Once loose, remove it all the way by hand, making extra certain not to drop it.Step 9 - Wiggle the oil control valve just a tiny bit from side to side while pulling on it. It should pop out after a bit if wiggling. Don't wiggle it too hard though, as this might break the unit and be a pain to get the broken bit out.Step 10 - Make sure the new oil control valve has engine oil on the rubber seal on the shaft. The OEM units come coated in oil, but if dry, just get a little bit off the engine dip stick and lightly oil the shaft and rubber O ring.Step 11 - Put the new control valve into the hole, but make extra sure and care to not touch any dirty areas to the sides of the hole which might get dirt and stuff onto the shaft. The unit should pop into place with a little extra push.Step 12 - Get the 10mm bolt back on. It helps to put a little bit of duct tape around the socket and bolt head to keep it on until it is in the hole and screwed in a bit. That way it doesn't get dropped into the engine. Once screwed in a ways, pull the socket off and take the tape off, then screw the bolt all the way in and get it snug. Make sure to not go crazy on tightening it, as the engine block is aluminum and will strip easily if too tight. It doesn't need to be more tight than just enough to keep the bolt from wiggling itself loose.Step 13 - Reconnect the wire plug to the oil control valve. If the plug release lever snapped, pull the broken plastic piece out and use zip ties to hold it in place. This part can be difficult due to limited space, but as long as there is no way for the plug to slip off, it should be good to go.Step 14 - Reconnect the vacuum hoses to the black box and make sure the pieces that holds it in place to the other hoses are connected back.Step 15 - Reconnect the battery and start the engine. Make sure no oil is coming out of the area where the valve was replaced. Engine RPM might be high on this first start as the computer calibrates to the new oil control valve. Drive around the neighborhood for 20 minutes and verify everything is running fine with no new check engine light.Step 16 - If everything is OK, put the plastic cover back on the engine.
